The Basics
The WC-E63 is indicated as a 0.63x converter with four elements
in four groups. It does not change the aperture rating of the overall lens.
Here's how the 0.63x works with the various Coolpix models:
|
Coolpix 990 |
Coolpix 950 |
Coolpix 900 |
Coolpix 880 |
Coolpix 800 |
Coolpix 700 |
| Focal Length Equivalent (35mm) |
24mm |
24mm |
24mm |
24mm |
24mm |
22mm |
| Angle of View |
86 degrees |
84 degrees |
87 degrees |
84 degrees |
84 degrees |
86 degrees |
| Minimum Focus |
4.72" (12cm) |
4.72" (12cm) |
2.76" (7cm) |
5.91" (15cm) |
4.72" (12cm) |
3.94" (10cm) |
Curiously, Nikon's definition of 24mm equivalent has a wide
variance, ranging from 84 to 88 degrees. A real 24mm lens has an 84 degree
angle of view, so using this accessory on the 990 and 900 actually produces
a slightly wider shot than expected (not enough to notice, but enough to make
a difference if you use math to set up a shot). Note that the 990 doesn't
produce the widest possible angle of view unless you specify the lens converter
in the menu system.
Up front, the WC-E63 takes 72mm filters and accessories. Surpisingly,
Nikon doesn't specify a hood for this lens converter, though it probably could
use one, due to that big piece of curved glass at the front (it catches direct
light, which lowers overall contrast considerably. As with all Nikon converters,
the back end is covered by a small metal cap that screws on to the threads;
the front is protected by a standard Nikon 72mm lens cap.
In order to mount this lens, Coolpix 880 owners need the UR-E2
adapter, while Coolpix 700 owners need the UR-E1.
Handling
The WC-E63 is a beefy little fellow, weighing in at just over
5 ounces (150g) due to the metal barrel and big lens elements. It seems pretty
impervious to minor scrapes and bumps, but be aware that the front element
is quite exposed, and easily damaged. The weight makes your Coolpix front
heavy, but not absurdly so (as with the TC-E3).
Focusing becomes a real problem with lens converters on the
Coolpix models. First, as noted above, the minimum focus distance changes
(though autofocus still works). Second, you have to use the color LCD to evaluate
composition and focus. Finally, setting a specific focus distance is trial
and error, which makes getting good depth of field difficult (in the example
photo, above, keeping the near tree and the distant trees in focus required
me to drop into manual focus mode and toggle through the various settings,
evaluating the results on the color LCD; in retrospect, I'd probably pick
a focus point one notch closer, but the focus I achieved is more than acceptable).
The large diameter of the converter makes it impossible to
use the built-in flash of any Coolpix model (except for, perhaps, the upcoming
995). You'll have to use an external flash on a bracket or cancel flash altogether
when using this converter. Also, the viewfinder is no longer functional, both
because it doesn't show the new angle of view and because it is blocked by
the converter itself.
Using the WC-E63 is not a no-brain operation. To take good
pictures with it, you'll need to pay careful attention to the color LCD and
experiment with manual focus points to get good depth of field.
Performance
The big question is: is the WC-E63 better than the smaller,
lighter WC-E24? Yes, to a degree.
Distortion is much better corrected, though still evident.
Edges are slightly better, though still soft compared to a real 24mm on my
35mm bodies. Chromatic aberration is better handled, though can still be seen
in high contrast situations. In short, this new converter does everything
just a tad better than the original.
Drawbacks
- Focusing. It'll take you some
work to figure out how to achieve the best depth of field with this lens.
- Composition. If you can't see the color
LCD, you won't be able to set up your shots using a converter. It's very
difficult to judge fine detail.
Competition
- WC-E24. The original 2 element converter. It's much smaller
and lighter, but it also has more barrel distortion than the WC-E63 and
you sometimes see chromatic aberration in the corners of high contrast images.
- Third-party converters. Raynox, Tiffen, and a number of
others make lens converters, originally intended for video cameras, but
quickly repackaged to look like digital camera converters. I've tried a
half dozen so far, and none come close to the Nikon converters in terms
of edge-to-edge clarity, lack of distortion, and even convenience (the Raynox
converter I tried, for example, "clamps" onto the Coolpix lens,
but it's very easy to not get it seated exactly parallel to the lens). While
these converters are cheap (<US$60), you get what you pay for.
